Raymundo Larraín NesbittRaymundo Larraín looks at Malaga’s highlights as a place to live, visit, and invest.
16th of September 2024
I continue today with my running series on top places to buy and live in Spain. You can find older entries on this series scrolling down below. These impromptu light-hearted guides are not meant to be exhaustive; they are just there as a lighthouse to shed light on an area’s main highlights and landmarks.
As a quick disclaimer, I need to disclose I was born in Malaga. Understandably, I’ll indulge in poetic licence in some sections.
Introduction
Malaka was founded in 770 BC as a Phoenician outpost by merchants originating from the fabled city of Tyre. Scholars think its name means ‘queen’, and it was dedicated to the Eastern deity Astarte (also known by the Babylonians as Ishtar, an Anunnaki Goddess of war and sexual love). The city was built on a bay, which offered natural shelter against the elements, making it an ideal spot to build a harbour and moor ships. The colony manufactured a popular fish sauce known as Garum (the ketchup of the ancient world) and minted coins dedicated to its goddess.
Centuries after, it would go on to be ruled by Carthage, and then by the Roman Republic in 218 BC which renamed it Malaca. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Visigoths took over. In the eighth century, Moors from across the strait invaded and Mālaqah fell under Islamic rule over the next eight centuries. Malaga was ‘liberated’ in 1487 by the Catholic Kings forming part of the unified Kingdom of Spain until our present day.
Malaga is the second most populated city in Andalusia after Seville. It has become Andalusia’s economic powerhouse, and it is home to other well-known cities such as Marbella (Andalusia’s tourist flagship), Mijas, Fuengirola, Estepona, Ronda, Benahavis, Benalmadena, etc.
Malaga is the capital city of the region bearing its namesake and is the administrative centre of the Costa del Sol. Malagueños are popularly referred to as boquerones (a tiny fish).
Malaga, culture capital of the Costa del Sol
As can be surmised from the introduction, Malaga is an eclectic assortment of different Mediterranean cultures. Each of these civilisations left its unique footprint, building what they believed in, creating a vibrant city that exudes culture and inspires us all.
Its vast cultural heritage spans from the Picasso Museum, Pompidou Museum, Carmen Thyssen Museum, Saint Petersburg’s Russian Museum, the bullring to a slew of glam theatres, such as the trendy Teatro del Soho (run by Hollywood actor Antonio Banderas); all give it a lustre of a cosmopolitan city. But if we dig deeper into its historic roots, history buffs will get lost in its Roman and Carthaginian ruins, Augustus’ two-millennia-old open air amphitheatre, its imposing Moorish Citadel (Ciudadela) perched high atop the city walls with commanding views overlooking the bay and adjacent to sweetly scented gardens.
The magnificent architecture is spearheaded by its iconic lopsided cathedral (La Manquita), the only one in the world with only one tower. Malaga’s Town Hall and the Justice Palace are also worth noting for their beauty and magnificence. The scenic English merchant district (Paseo de Reding), with its elegant lavish nineteenth-century mansions and embellished doors, has been the mute witness of countless romances through time.
I’ve collated what I believe are the main museums, but there are in fact many more:
- Picasso Museum: It is altogether fitting and proper that Malaga hosts one of the largest art collections in the world dedicated to its most universal son, Picasso. Located in Buenavista Palace (a gorgeous 450 year-old palace), it exhibits 285 works from the artist generously donated by his family. The works cover his Pink and Blue Periods as well as the Cubist Movement.
- Carmen Thyssen Museum: Malaga-born ‘Tita’ Cervera, Patron of the Arts, generously donated a large number of paintings that drew from her husband’s vast art collection. It’s located in a nineteenth-century palace. In it, you will find a wide assortment of paintings, ranging from Old Masters to Spanish Masters, such as Zurbarán, Diego de Regoyos and Julio Romero de Torres. It also houses interesting temporary exhibits borrowed from other reputed museums.
- Saint Petersburg’s Museum: Located at the beautiful Royal Tobacco Factory, it’s the first Western offshoot of the much-revered Saint Peterburg’s Museum of the Russian Federation. It regularly borrows exhibits from its mother museum.
- Centre Pompidou Malaga: Is an offshoot of Paris’ George Pompidou art museum. It can be found in Malaga’s beautiful port. It features modern art exhibits which are rotated regularly.
- Malaga Museum: Located at the heart of Malaga, in another beautiful colonial-style palace (how many palaces does this city have?), it exhibits Phoenician artifacts, Roman relics and Moorish treasures. Its main highlights include beautifully preserved mosaics, intricate pottery, and a fascinating array of tools. Interactive elements and multimedia presentations allow visitors to actively engage with the past creating a personalised experience. Ideal for kids and history buffs.
- OXO Videogame Museum: Located in the old town centre, it occupies a building several storeys high, and mostly displays hardware. Its software exhibits are somewhat limited (hopefully they will be greatly expanded through donations). From retro games, such as 70’s Pong and the 80s Pac-Man, to modern classics such as Brian Reynolds’s Alpha Centauri and Sid Meier’s Civilization (one more turn). Highly recommended for children and for, erm, adults young at heart.
Inset photo: Caesar Augustus’ well-preserved two-thousand-year-old amphitheatre, possibly the greatest Roman Emperor
The first recorded tourist: Hans Christian Andersen
Its first-ever recorded tourist was romantic Danish writer Hans Christian Andersen, who arrived by boat in October 1862 and quickly fell in love with its Moorish mystique. But rather than read my boring drivel on his exploits, let’s hear it from him:
“The stars were beginning to shine, the crowd increased beneath; the promenaders went under the trees on the level ground; riders and persons driving kept the paved road. A band of musicians were playing airs from “Norma”; my thoughts turned into verse, on the sweet southern evening.”
To commemorate his visit, Malaga erected a statue in his honour that can now be visited at Plaza de la Marina, next to the beach. Andersen seems to be looking out towards the sea, mumbling something about a mermaid…
Say, is that a duckling poking out of Andersen’s briefcase?
Malaga, cradle of artists and intellectuals
During its twenty-eight hundred years of history, Malaga has been the birthplace of several renowned figures, ranging from artists to writers, and everything in between. I’ve greatly abridged the list to name the main ones.
To name a few, and in no particular order:
Antonio Banderas (Hollywood actor, producer, businessman, and city benefactor), Carmen ‘Tita’ Cervera (Baroness Thyssen-Bornemisza, socialite, Patron of the Arts, and city benefactor), Francisco Manuel de la Torre Prados (arguably Malaga’s best major who transformed the city and its port, paving the way for the future), José Barea Tejeiro (eminent economist, economics university professor at Madrid’s UAM), María Barranco (actress), Millie Bobby Brown (Hollywood actress), Terelu Campos (journalist, tv presenter, and showwoman), Antonio Cánovas del Castillo (politician and historian who fostered Spain’s first democracy), Francisco de Paula de Cea Bermúdez y Buzo (politician and diplomat), Remedios Cervantes (model, actress, and businesswoman), Abu El-Ola (Al-Andalus governor), María Eloy-García (poet), Ibn Gabirol (philosopher), Bernardo de Gálvez y Madrid (career soldier who distinguished himself in the US War of Independence), Victoria Kent (outstanding Republican lawyer and politician), Antonio Molina (singer and patriarch of an artistic family saga which spawned several renowned artists), Dani Rovira (actor), María Barranco (actress), Pepa Flores (artistic name Marisol, child prodigy, singer and actress), Amparo Muñoz (model and actress), Antonio Cánovas del Castillo (politician and historian), María Zambrano (distinguished philosopher and writer), and Pablo Ruiz Picasso (artist).
Remedios Cervantes, Miss Spain
Malaga’s Port
Ironically for a port city, one of the newest areas in town, which has undergone extensive changes over the last two decades, is precisely its port which had been long neglected. As in Andersen’s fairy tale, The Ugly Duckling, the port transformed from ugly (a dark, dirty and gritty industrial hub) to a beautiful swan. It is now one of Malaga’s highlights.
The place now has two walkways full of open-air restaurants and colourful terraces to chill out al fresco in good company. Large cruise ships, that sail all over the Mediterranean Sea, dock here and its passengers walk the gorgeous port boulevard. It also hosts the George Pompidou Museum which always has modern art and monthly exhibitions on display. Beautiful views of the moored ships and yachts are guaranteed at dusk. Lads, if you want to impress a lass, this is the place; you’re welcome.
Moorish Citadel – Alcazaba of Málaga
Nestled high in the Gibralfaro hill, overlooking the open bay below and the dashing blue waters, lies the Alcazaba (القَصَبَة or AL-qasbah, in Arabic fortification in a walled town). It is an impressive Moorish fortress that protects the city. In the event of a city raid, the citizens would flock to it and the doors would be shut. It also served a dual purpose as the residence of the Moorish governor. It’s worth your while to take a short trek (40 minutes) up the hill to take in those gorgeous city views that await you (the best in town). You will not be disappointed.
La Manquita – Malaga’s cathedral
Its construction spanned from the 16th to the 18th century. To finance its outrageous cost, a levy was imposed on each ship which docked and unloaded its cargo for over three hundred years! The cathedral was designed to have two majestic towers. However, as mentioned above, it only features one, hence its Spanish nickname. The people of Malaga decided to gift the money towards the second tower to thirteen struggling colonies in their War for Independence against a mighty empire. A very clever and resourceful envoy, by the name of Benjamin, managed to smooth talk and convince our townsfolk that it was in their best interests to divert the tower funds to his colonial cause. And so, to this very day, the cathedral remains with only one tower in remembrance of the solidarity and friendship with those fledgling overseas colonies which, over time, grew and did very well for themselves. A pungent reminder that freedom and independence come at a price, lest we forget.
Easter Week
Easter Week, Semana Santa in Spanish, is one of the city’s major highlights in the calendar. Religious fervour floods its streets and takes grip over its inhabitants. Balconies and main roads are decked up in red, men and women dress up in gala, processions abound, drums beat with a rhythmic pattern, and the sweet smell of burning incense gently drifts through the air of its alleyways taking us back in time. Special mention should be made to the Costaleros. These are group of devoted men who train together and carry in synchronicity the religious thrones dedicated to the Virgin Mary and our Lord Jesus. These often weigh in excess of 4 tonnes. Depending on the weight of the thrones, groups vary from 60 to as much as 250 men. They are divided into different associations (cofradias) and compete to outdo one another in their religious fervour. Women dress up in elegant mantillas (a shawl that covers head and shoulders). It’s quite the sight.
Mercado de Aterazanas
This market dates back to the 14th century. It’s one of the most important shopping centres (not a modern one!) where visitors come in every day looking for tapas and fresh “pescaíto” (typical small fried fish). Its iconic architecture is from the nineteenth century. Fresh produce is brought in every day from all surrounding villages.
Alameda Principal
Commonly known as La Alameda, is the main avenue that runs through Malaga City. The avenue is flanked on both sides by centuries-old trees, whose exotic seeds were brought by sailors over the eras from all the far-flung corners of the Spanish Empire. These majestic trees, dot Malaga’s sprawling avenue and parks, providing shade with a lush green canopy encompassed by the soothing chirping of birds.
Tapas, restaurants, and food
Honestly, I don’t really like giving publicity in these articles to privately owned businesses. However, as everyone always asks for a great and genuine place for tapas, I feel compelled to throw in some names. In no particular order, my favs would be El Pimpi, Picasso Bar Tapas, and Casa Lola. And for meat lovers, La Pampa grill.
Another place you should check out is the Casa del Turron 1880, which makes and sells turrones (a Spanish delicacy that is meant for Christmas).
Regarding drinking, given Malaga’s always warm temperatures, I recommend trying out local beers, such as Victoria and San Miguel. Your best allies against a sweltering heat.
And to close, you cannot leave town without trying homemade almendras garrapiñadas (impossible to pronounce, they are candied almonds), featured in the photo below. You can thank me later.
Calle Marqués de Larios
Named after the marquis that made it possible, it is the shopping street for excellence with trendy designer boutiques. The street is always bustling with wide-eyed tourists, locals and live street performers. The street also doubles for major events, such as in Easter Week, when they close it down and deck it up in red for processions. It also happens to be the location with the nicest coffee shop in town (Lepanto) and homemade ice cream (Casa Miras). I recommend visiting the old city quarter, which is adjacent to the cathedral. There you will find many interesting and picturesque shops and sights. Malaga is a very safe place to wander about.
Parque Tecnológico de Málaga (PTA)
To close, I have written extensively about the city’s past, but I also wanted to mention a line or two about the bright future that lies ahead for Malaga, resting upon the shoulders of its youth. A symbol of Malaga’s technological ingenuity is its PTA, which is an impressive technology hub that is home to over 3,000 technological start-ups. Malaga’s university curates the PTA, supplying its small caps with a steady stream of highly qualified engineers, programmers, and IT designers. Some of the companies are becoming so prominent, they have drawn the attention of international foreign venture capitalists. For example, Swedish EQT Group recently bought for €300mn a Malaga technological startup (Freepik) that had created – all by itself – a market of over 40mn consumers! Some would even argue that Malaga is poised to become the California of Southern Europe.
Conclusion
Malaga is a crucible of cultures, a conflux that laces Western and Eastern influences, offering a rich tapestry of history and arts that shaped it as we know it. Malaga’s vast cultural heritage, spanning millennia, is a legacy of commingled cultures that attracts millions of tourists every year
Unlike some of its glitzier neighbour cities up and down the coast, which focus primarily on beach and sun tourism, Malaga lives and breathes for culture, standing the test of time.
Albeit what ultimately defines Malaga best, and makes it truly unique, are its people. Malagueños are welcoming people with a passion for life.
In a recent poll, Malaga was voted by expats as the world’s second-best city to live & work.
Malaga, passion for life.
Málaga, tierra de pasión
Portrait of a young Picasso, arguably Spain’s most iconic artist
“La acción es la clave fundamental de todo éxito.” – Pablo Picasso.
Loosely translated as: “Action is the key to success“.
Pablo Ruiz Picasso (1881 – 1973). Málaga-born, he was a passionate Spanish painter, sculptor, printmaker, ceramicist, stage designer, poet, and playwright who spent most of his adult life in France. He was an outspoken Communist with strong political views who self-exiled to France as he did not want to live under the yoke of Franco’s dictatorship. Regarded as one of the most influential artists of the 20th century, he is credited for co-founding the Cubist movement. A child prodigy, Picasso was a multifaceted artist who achieved universal renown and immense fortune for his revolutionary artistic accomplishments, becoming one of the best-known figures in 20th-century art. He was a prolific artist who left behind thousands of works of art. Perhaps his most iconic piece was the 1937 Guernica painting which depicts the horrors of war and uncannily foreshadowed the dark days of WWII (exhibited in Madrid, Centro de Arte Reina Sofía). Picasso was one-of-a-kind; a towering artistic figure who cast a long shadow over every other artist that followed in his wake. Picasso is Malaga’s most universal son.
Other entries in this running series:
- Costa del Sol: your dream home in paradise – 8th April 2022
- Sotogrande, the pearl of Cadiz – 3rd June 2022
- Barcelona, the beautiful – 8th November 2022
- Madrid, capital splendour – 21st March 2023
- Mallorca: Heaven on Earth – 8th June 2023
- Granada, the Last Kingdom – 12th October 2023
- Seville, a dream city – 21st March 2024
- Malaga, passion for life – 16th September 2024
Please note the information provided in this article is of general interest only and is not to be construed or intended as substitute for professional legal advice. This article may be posted freely in websites or other social media so long as the author is duly credited. Plagiarizing, whether in whole or in part, this article without crediting the author may result in criminal prosecution. Ní neart go cur le chéile. Voluntas omnia vincit.
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